PARIS (AP) — After Milan, the global fashion spotlight shifted to the final stretch of the ready-to-wear shows in Paris on Tuesday.
But a display in the French capital will revisit the past this week with a tribute to recently deceased designers Vivienne Westwood and Paco Rabanne.
Here are the highlights from Tuesday’s Fall/Winter 2023-2024 collection, including Dior:
Dior rebels
A surreal, colorful and organic world awaited guests at the Tuileries Gardens in Paris.
A stunning Dior installation reminiscent of a giant octopus crisscrossed the runway, tentacles of colorful fabrics glowing with a myriad of tiny lights. It was the work of Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, who wanted to explore how organic forms interact with the “female realm of artisanal savoir-faire”. It made for a dazzling backdrop, given the paparazzi flash after guest, including model Elle Macpherson, K-pop star Jisoo, and actresses Maisie Williams and Charlize Theron.
Where decor looks futuristic, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri has used the past as a touchstone for her clothes.
Catherine Dior, the sister of the Maison’s founder and a hero of the French resistance movement, and French singers Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco, each described as “rebellious and at the same time strong and fragile”, are the three women in this collection. was a muse. Reminiscent of his 1950s, the heyday of Christian Dior.
A vintage air was evoked in faded black leather menswear coats, crumpled houndstooth skirts and wrinkled wool socks.
Elsewhere, sweaters and skirts had extra volume at the shoulders and hips, a nod to thicker post-war fabrics. It included a black textured skirt draped heavily with thousands of decorative flowers.
Theron, impressed by Chiuri’s strong style, told AP: And by loving women, she understands that they are both feminine and masculine at the same time. We are vulnerable and we are strong. we are inconsistent. We know a little bit of everything and I love that she has that wisdom. ”
saint laurent emphasizes shoulders
Haunting organ music, wafting incense and dim lighting led VIPs such as Dua Lipa, Rose and Catherine Deneuve to a mesmerizing black runway dimly lit by five golden chandeliers.
The venue was meant to evoke the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, said the Maison, where YSL presented couture collections for decades until 2001.
Regardless of inspiration, it was clear that Anthony Vaccarello drama was on the way this fall. This shows that the acclaimed Saint Laurent designer is in a creative mood.
This season, elongated, theatrically sculpted shoulders punctuate the silhouette. Sleek gowns, minidresses, pencils. The protruding shoulders of the tuxedo “Tailurjupe” above his skirt were so large that sashes and scarves literally hung, as if from scaffolding. In fact, one fashion insider commented that he could have wiped out the walls of Paris’ famously narrow corridors.
The result was a bold, top-heavy silhouette reminiscent of the 1980s, incorporating early 2000s styles such as large hoop earrings and pointed toe heels.
Something that seems to ooze mystical looks, such as a pearly satin top with a draped hood and pointed shoulders worn over slim trousers on models with infinitely long legs. There is also
Elsewhere, a sense of transparency was played out thanks to muslin, chiffon and crepe de chine fabrics and see-through stockings.
Mamekuro Kawachi Past and Future
Mame Kurogouchi’s Japanese ready-to-wear brand digs sharply between the past and the present, fusing traditional dressmaking with new technology.
This was perfectly demonstrated in their 80s fall minimalist take.
The crisp, clean lines of the gray pantsuit gave it a futuristic feel with its diagonal dynamics. fanny pack.
The stripped-down color palette created a sanitized vibe that worked well with ’80s references: wide, flat apron silhouettes, hoods, and heavily textured top-heavy ensembles.
VAQUERA GETS KINK ON
The “badass dress” is one of Vaquera’s pretty sassy collection of t-shirts. The look wasn’t the most kinky of the show, but it featured a few inches of flesh, studded chokers, a bare torso, shredded bondage in her gear, and multiple takes on ’90s grunge and denim jeans. provided.
This was the second show in Paris for designers Patrick DiCaprio and Bryn Taubency, who made their name in New York six years ago with the iconic American flag gown. After last year’s more commercial season, the talented duo are back in bold action.
The succinct 12-look display in black began with a masked headpiece and a patch on one breast of a nude woman’s torso. The other breast was covered by her model’s gloved hand. It’s a difficult look to wear on the street, but guest cameras snapped it. Next, a black cotton top constructed from countless shreds for volume and edge. Wool thermal insulation incorporating a bondage mask. Paired with a hat, the skirt is deconstructed with a flap, reminiscent of a bondage outfit.
