March 8, 2023
Paris Fashion Week ended in style on Tuesday despite the general strike. The program unfolded as planned, although fewer fans than usual gathered for the main show and less pressure for the guests. Several very original collections were announced, such as Y/Project and Avellano.
Feeling like Blade Runner in AWAKE mode
Whether wearing simple baggy suits, hiding their eyes behind long fringes, or wearing casual cargo pants and sheath dresses, the women of AWAKE mode made an impression. It was laid back, masculine and sophisticated, classic and eccentric. “Like a femme fatale, but relaxed. The collection has highly structured and comfortable elements, but also a more feminine and romantic side,” says designer Natalia Her Araber. Dian summarized. She said, “Inspired by the atmosphere of Ridley Scott’s masterpiece, blade runner,” flaunting the futuristic retro hairstyle of cult movie protagonist Rachel, as revealed by the last few models of the show.
The collection was a blend of couture cuts, geometric lines, sophisticated constructions and wonderfully tactile materials sourced from dormant inventories. Some denim pant waist fabrics are joined together to form jeans, bright yellow ensembles are cut from luxuriously soft cotton wool, others are made from textured vinyl, sky, or aged faux leather. The dress and large handbag were made of striped faux fur.
Suits were made entirely from strips of fabric that were torn like feathers. Spherical buttons accentuate the long slits at the bottom of the pants, curving diagonally across maxi skirts or in new-look cowboy pants. It had big pockets everywhere.
Of particular note are the highly attractive shoes that look like precious design objects. Made in Italy, they were sometimes worn mismatched, with a silver mule on the right and a gold mule on the left. They were also covered in fur, woven leather and adorned with gold spheres.AWAKE Mode is based in London and has 12 employees. It is distributed through 60 multi-brand retailers, including Galeries Lafayette, Printemps and Samaritaine, with a primary market in the United States.
Y/project creative imperfections
Y/Project made a spectacular comeback to the Parisian womenswear calendar on Tuesday, with models striding majestically across the floors of a dilapidated building under construction, a shocking and endlessly repetitive “from Handel’s opera.” Lascia ch’io pianga” air Rinaldo.
The pauses between notes lasted a few seconds and were ideal for appreciating the thousand-and-one ideas and structural details that Glenn Martens infused into each of his creations that seem to be in a constant whirlwind. . The ribbon never floated or the fabric swayed. By completely destroying the clothing, Martens created the illusion of dynamic movement. For example, belts, ties, necklaces, and handbags all appeared to be entwined in spirals, and some clothing was twisted into spirals.
Button strips on jackets and shirts come off abruptly at opposite tangents. Trousers were either unbuttoned along the leg and rebuttoned at an angle or lined with strips of fabric and worn as overpants, but they were too loose and left a yawn gap. was a hymn to creative imperfection.
Martens riffed on his great classics and pushed his experiments further. His famous bare-lined culottes His pants have been reinvented this season by replacing the pant legs with fairy-tale giant boots made from the same fabric. He also gets creative with frayed threads embedded in various costumes, such as impromptu teardrops, or tentacle-like embroidery around the dress, or frayed threads that appear to have completely torn the garment. I worked.
As with last season, Martens, creative director of Italian denim brand Diesel, has a strong focus on trompe l’oeil prints, especially denim. This material is ubiquitous again, heavily injected into the collection in a variety of looks, treatments, washes, prints and constructions.I doubt Y/Project will ever become Diesel’s couture line…
Futuristic Full Latex Collection from Avellano
after opening with blade runnerthe last day of Paris Fashion Week matrixSunglasses, long trench coats, floor-length cassock coats, gloved hands and stiletto heel boots. Not just super-sexy leggings and jumpsuits that hug his body and legs, as if his famous sci-fi movie characters were proliferating in front of the audience, all latex black his total Look walks the Avellano runway.
For the first show on the Parisian womenswear calendar, Toulouse-born designer Arthur Avellano showcases his favorite fabrics and his early work, from wide trousers to ample cuts and flowing trench coats and jackets. We focused on the looks that brought us success and imbued it with a neo-futuristic element. mood. He has continued his work with latex and explored new manufacturing methods and techniques. For example, snakeskin-like or sheer latex, or tulle he’s made of 3D printed latex and hand-placed Swarovski to create his crystal-encrusted shimmering mesh jumpsuit. .
Avellano neglected menswear, introducing only two menswear looks to the collection and moving almost entirely to womenswear. His tunic and jumpsuit hybrids include draped sheath dresses that hug the body’s curves and sometimes bare the back, plush train dresses and flairs with thin straps. It suggests some flexibility and lightness. Some of the chrome-colored items appeared to be cast in metal, while the clear latex top appeared to be made of lightweight fabric.
Avellano has withdrawn from wholesale distribution in order to concentrate on bespoke and bespoke products. Ever since Kim Kardashian wore his Avellano dress, the brand has been red on his carpet. “We never stop. We work with a lot of stars and celebrities, but also bands and touring his musicians. Requests are pouring in,” he said, adding that he currently has 10 employees. says Arthur Avellano, who has
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