Meter-high camellia flowers, priceless Roman sculptures, colorful confetti cubes – strange and sublime, this season’s runway sets were as visually stimulating as the collection itself. From blockbuster sets that evoke sprawling Hollywood soundstages to more intimate gatherings with vintage furnishings, we’ve rounded up the best show spaces for his 2023 A/W Fashion Month, which ended in Paris earlier this week. (see Paris Fashion Week A/W 2023). highlight).
Best Fall/Winter 2023 Runway Sets
prada
Prada 2023 A/W Showspace
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Like Prada’s menswear show in January, a sparse bunker-like space in the Fondazione Prada deposit welcomed visitors. As the show progressed, the ceiling rose to reveal a huge bunch of lilies hanging from the ceiling (in the men’s show, instead of flowers, a towering Art Deco-style chandelier appeared). The atmosphere shifts almost imperceptibly from a dark, low-ceilinged room to a warm, monumental salon-like space and back again,” said designer OMA. Exceptional in its clothing.
Chanel
CHANEL 2023 A/W SHOW SPACE
(Image credit: Courtesy of Chanel)
Virginie Viard turned to the eternal Chanel emblem of the romantic camellia flower for the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, with white flowers adorning the clothing and accessories of the collection in different ways. Flowers were also the centerpiece of the curved show space, expanded to gigantic size, leaving fresh camellias on each attendee’s seat. In addition, the show space built in the Grand Palais Ephemer has a towering screen, Polly Magoo, who are you?A film inspired by the film by Inez and Vinoodh (jurors of the 2023 Wallpaper* Design Awards), starring actress Nana Komatsu, one of the Maison’s ambassadors.
gucci
Gucci A/W 2023 show space
(Image credit: Courtesy of Gucci)
According to Gucci, this season’s show space is a surreal image of an office lobby complete with a series of elevators and a circular carpeted pit for spectators to sit in. Sarno will not present its first collection until September 2023). The Fall/Winter 2023 collection blends elements of the 1990s and 2000s, drawing memories of various designers in what the collection notes call “an exuberant conversation between the past and the future,” some of whom Ka has been at home for decades. “The elevator carries the collection from the building to the runway. From archives where concepts ignite to runways where new expressions emerge, it shows the creative process behind new proposals.”
Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta 2023 A/W Showspace
(Image credit: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta)
Matthieu Blazy said he wanted to evoke a ‘parade’ of his 2023 A/W collection, the final chapter of his ‘Italia’ trilogy, based primarily on the diversity of Italian styles and crafts. increase). The timeless mood was captured in the sculptures that graced his space with an intimate carpeted show. A Roman Bronze from 1BC pairs his runner with the Italian Futurist Umberto Boccioni. A unique continuity in space (1913). Both depict figures in motion created some 2,000 years apart. This is a fitting representation of the scalability of his Blazy project within the 81 Look collection itself.
Loewe
Loewe 2023 A/W Showspace
(Image credit: Courtesy of Loewe)
Jonathan Anderson drafted Italian artist Lara Favaretto to create colorful confetti cubes to popularize the otherwise sparse optical-white runway (the space itself was inspired by Paris It was another cube built in the courtyard of the historic Château de Vincennes at the eastern end of the city). “It’s the idea of looking at reality. In a room it looks like one thing, but online audiences can see it another way.” “It’s my biggest obsession right now… How do I strengthen my language and still be agnostic to the language I built?”
Ferragamo
Ferragamo 2023 A/W Showspace
(Image credit: Courtesy of Ferragamo)
British designer Maximilian Davis’ Ferragamo sophomore collection is much larger than his first, seeing Milan’s MiCo convention center transformed into a monolithic curved wall on which attendees sit. published on a scale. Blockbusters His sets have evoked the sets of his science fiction films in Hollywood. In fact, Davis’ film collection represents the ultra-femininity and glamor of Golden Age Hollywood (especially Maison founder Salvatore his Ferragamo shoes Marilyn her Monroe and Sophia her Lauren). into a new definition of beauty. He viewed it as “alien futurism”.
acne studios
Acne Studios 2023 A/W Show Space
(Image credit: Courtesy of Acne Studios)
‘[There was] Crochet shoes, giant turnips, swamp people, sparkle,” says Shauna Heath, set designer for Acne Studios, who decorates the space with magical plant-like sculptures inspired by the magic and lore of the forest for Wallpaper*. Talked about the eclectic inspiration of the creation. “He asked Shona to create a place that captured the dark forest terrain in a creative way,” said Jonny Johansson, her director of creative at Acne Studios, noting that the unique collection’s roots are Found in Swedish nature. “I love how the forest is constantly changing, growing and transforming.”
sports max
Sportmax A/W 2023 Show Space
(Image credit: Courtesy of Sportmax)
Sportmax exhibited in a former industrial space in Milan, placing an extensive collection of vintage chairs in the show space, from Victorian armchairs to modernist sofas. Attendees sat there to view the collection (the brand called it the “Grunge Garage”). They reflect the collection’s eclectic mood, straddling reference points of “the constant contrast between bourgeois elegance, primitive chic and glamor androgynous”.
Mew Mew
Miu Miu 2023 A/W Showspace
(Image credit: Courtesy of Miu Miu)
Miuccia Prada has said that her Fall/Winter 2023 collection is about “looks.” Statement distributed after the show. It was the mood reflected on the set, the raised pedestal running through the Palais Diena space designed to “help observe”. Also introduced was a series of screens showing works conceived for the show by Korean artist Kumhyun Jung. The work explored the relationship between her own body and clothing, “capturing and arresting our attention and demanding attention.”
Louis Vuitton
LOUIS VUITTON 2023 A/W SHOW SPACE
(Image credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton)
The gilded Beaux-arts salon of the Musée d’Orsay in Paris provided the location for Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest Louis Vuitton collection. The Grand Space was installed by French artist Philippe His Parreno, alongside Hollywood set designer James Chinlund (last season they created “Monster Flower” for the designer’s previous show). interrupted by a black runway with spikes. “Sound Illusion” by Academy Award-winning composer Nicholas Becker. Appropriately for inspiration, the noises, from the clatter of heels to car horns, were to reflect the feeling of being on the streets of Paris. The sensation followed the surface of the runway and reminded me of paving stones and cobbles.
Dior
(Image credit: Courtesy of Dior)
Maria Grazia Chiuri continued her collaboration with female artists in a dramatic, carnival-inspired show by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos. Valkyrie Miss DiorIts huge undulating forms are fabrics that recall the fabrics of Grazia Chiuri’s previous collections, made from textile techniques such as sewing, knitting and crocheting. The designer said he would like to have a dialogue with Vasconcelos about Catherine Dior, sister of Maison founder Christian Dior, a member of the French Resistant and later a florist. became “a tribute to Catherine, a true model of female emancipation”.