From left: Chanel, Miu Miu
Photo Illustration: By The Cut.Photo: Chanel, courtesy of Miu Miu
Designers often want to hide clues about their collection in plain sight. Think of the tufts of white lilies that graced Prada’s runways for wedding-themed shows. Or a pale green carpet with flecks of chocolate brown based on Bottega Veneta gelato flavors, a collection about Italian marching customs. Virginie’s secret to her Viard super-sweet outfit for Chanel was also revealed in a giant camellia sculpture in the middle of her circular runway on Tuesday, the final day of the fall show.
It is not the camellia that has long been a Chanel motif and used for fashion trims and packaging. Rather, a black-and-white video image of Japanese actress and model Nana Komatsu was played at the entrance of the show, then in the sculpture’s creamy petals. Based on the 1966 cult film by William Klein. Where are you, Polly Magoo? In a way, Polly was the original Emily of Paris. But who are Chanel’s young ardent customers most likely to think of when they see the beautiful Nana in her suit in black velvet shorts her pants embellished with camellias? Polly? Or the popular Netflix series?
Chanel
Photo Illustration: By The Cut.Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
In that sense, the Viard show was clever. The storyline helps explain girlish flamboyance. Camellia is overused in shoes, knitwear designs, and black bouclé almost like an asteroid-like explosion on her jacket. White feathery puffs dotted on black jackets and sweaters. And the floor-scuffing swag of tweed inexplicably held the other suits down. This season she offered not only culottes (which looked okay), but also bloomers and a tight version of Bermuda her shorts, which are harsh proportions.She also offered wide-leg quilted satin pants. Some women might find it counter-cool at Boffo Chanelnes.
Chanel
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Years ago, Karl Lagerfeld shocked audiences by matching a Chanel jacket with black leggings. He then showed off a pair of black boy shorts made entirely of stretch chiffon.
Chanel
Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Today, it wouldn’t shock anyone to see Miuccia Prada wearing tiny shorts, like the beaded pants she unveiled at Miu Miu on Tuesday, paired with a plain turtleneck over pantyhose. was. star model. Yet there is a clear sense that designers still want a shocked response. Since they don’t remember anything anyway, they might get it — unless they’re in their 20s and fashion is new to them.
Mew Mew
Photo: Courtesy of Miu Miu
My problem with Viard’s style is that it feels like it lacks the radical spirit of Coco Chanel. It’s fading into flashy, quirky looks. That she’s fascinated by something very different from what entertained her predecessors and that she also has to feed the beast of Chanel, whose annual sales are believed to be around $15 billion I understand. But by mass-producing edgy looks and asteroid-her camellias, you risk losing touch with the heart of Chanel and what makes people admire it in the long run.
Mew Mew
Photo: Courtesy of Miu Miu
For the past three or four seasons, Miu Miu’s deconstruction of classic sportswear, shrinking its basic sibling khaki down to a five-inch mini, has had a huge impact. Prada and her design team wanted change. The result is a collection that combines ladylike codes with Prada’s skimmy embellished slips from the ’90s for her dresses and underwear.
Mew Mew
Photo: Courtesy of Miu Miu
That familiar feel served as a powerful agent for the show, especially in pieces that seemed oddly rigid and structured, such as widewale corduroy jackets and knitted coats. (They were either bonded or, if knitted, sewn into the material to give the body a little extra weight.) Ultimately, though, the design isn’t quite as bold as the recent Miu Miu collections. Additionally, the molding techniques used in mundane garments such as hoodies and cardigans are associated with Loewe and Balenciaga.
Mew Mew
Photo: Courtesy of Miu Miu
