As another fashion month draws to a close, a whole new host of up-and-coming designers has emerged as the brightest stars on the runway. and show off schedules, tending to favor new labels over traditional big-name brands, but other cities such as London and Paris also have their fair share of new labels on their official calendars. Here are some of our favorites from the fall 2023 season.
Jackson Wiederhoft bears the name Wiederhoft Inspired by everything from dance to theater, the brand was launched in 2019. The designer is a graduate of the Parsons School of Design, where he worked under Thom Browne for three years. Each collection is a masterpiece of form and fantasy, and this season’s characters walk the runway in precise corset gowns, trompe l’oeil lingerie, his prints, denim hooded dresses, and puffed tulle his skirts. Inspired by the retelling of Orpheus. “A lot of my work has to do with recontextualizing archetypal images… I take a lot of ancient Greek and Catholic imagery and do a sort of recontextualization. [and] It’s a decontextualization into a post-future, post-gender kind of space,” he tells ELLE.com.
BruceGlen was arguably the most colorful runway at NYFW. Just ask identical twin designers Bruce and Glen Proctor. “We’ve always been drawn to color and sparkle, but we haven’t always felt entitled to wear it,” they say. We have decided to embrace what we have: color.We begin to recognize the power of color, its ability to change moods and moods.It is important to us that BruceGlen inspires joy.Sad thing in the world We want our contribution to be a joy through all the gifts we have.” The brand started with handbags and relaunched in 2019, expanding into a variety of New jerseys, grommet dresses and velvet tops appeared. To wrap up the Fall/Winter 2023 show, her five-time Grammy Award-winning gospel artist Naomi Rain sings one of her late mother’s favorite gospel songs, “Order My Song.” Steps” was sung.
budding designer Helena Eisenhart conceived the line in Brooklyn in 2015 and has since built a reputation for mixing unusual materials such as vinyl mesh screens found on construction sites and upcycled vintage fabrics in unisex silhouettes. Debuting at New York Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2023 season, models strode through glass-walled, mirrored spaces, chain link fences wearing his pieces structured cutouts in an almost all-black palette. I was. “As a queer mixed-race person living in New York City, I often feel isolated and blessed at the same time,” they say. “Uniforms and dress codes have been a great inspiration for my work because they are a clear way of sharing multiple identities through dress manners. It is both a way to blend in and a way to show power and distinction Dressing according to the regulations also means disguising yourself.”
Elena Velez is not interested in your perception of her as a designer. Focusing on the female figure, anger, apocalypse and everything else that goes with women, she embraces the use of non-traditional materials, Midwestern background and high-fashion edge. In principle, we founded the brand in 2018. Her Fall/Winter 2023 season wasteland heroine featured her BDSM-esque charm underhanded, capitalizing on her AI movie experience. “For me, the most exciting thing about this new season is doubling down on world-building,” she says. Creatively, I’ve had the opportunity to tell stories around these romantic abstractions from places we’re all familiar with but lost touch with. We were able to build.”
As one of the next generation’s most diverse and inclusive designers, Eilish Sinead O’Dwyer She launched her London-based brand in 2018 with the concept of creating runway wear for everyone, regardless of size, ability or aesthetics. Her Bodycon Her pieces celebrate the body itself with feminine self-expression. For the Fall/Winter 2023 collection, she paid tribute to her late grandmother Rita her O’Dwyer with her punky vest, sculpted bustier top, fishnet dress and leggings.
“I believe that anything should be left much better than it was when you found it,” says London-based designer Feven Benmenby. Phoeben, of her ultimate goal of her namesake brand. “I think that’s how I feel about this industry. [what I] hope to achieve. ‘ Her signature is silk twists in her dresses, but she also looks to abstract prints and pufferfish silhouettes. Last season, her collection was inspired by her Tarot deck. And heading into the fall, she decided to focus on her one card. Chariot gave birth to more twists on her dress (this time on her massive shoulders) and a sea of surreal prints.
Part of the next generation of female designers, embodying Turkish-British talent, we do something radically different with a focus on all things femininity. Dilara Findigle Her Fall 2023 collection, presented at London Fashion Week, is titled “Not a Man’s Territory.” According to her show notes, “I’m not the best writer, but I was thinking… (it was overkill anyway…) Why men have so much control over our bodies.” What should a woman wear?How much is too much?Some standout looks include a Joan of Arc-esque dress covered in Victorian knifes, a Victorian lace-inspired dress. A mini dress made out of armor consisting of a pair of lingerie and a hair clip.
“There are many things to impress” Leucine Pierce We talk about her immaculate concoction of saccharine dresses, puffy sweaters, and cream puff sets. Since launching her brand, the Irish designer has made it her mission to focus on craftsmanship and traditional craftsmanship, as well as the manipulation of textiles, which is reflected in her incredibly intricate designs. increase. “I think my brand and my inspirations are many things rolled into one for her, from emotion to socio-politics to craft to design to her process.” made her Paris debut with a collection full of her signature.
Officially founded by Vincent Garnier Presciat in 2021, Presciat has already become one of the most interesting emerging brands to watch in Paris. Its fashion shows are also usually unexpected. Imagine this: Pigalle’s club immerses itself in gender-fluid goth, party kids, and period-style productions that push the boundaries of good taste and bad taste as well as costumes and characters. Full of all-around character that wraps around, Pressiat is for the daring and will always surprise you.
You can take the designer out of Amsterdam, but you can’t take Amsterdam out of the designer.Among them, new labels Duran Lantinck He has hosted adult fashion shows inside red-light clubs, dressed as Beyoncé, cut designer garments for Balenciaga, Prada and Diesel, and remade one-off pieces that are his specialty. For the first time, he had a runway show during his week at Paris Fashion.
Chen Peng He founded his label just over six years ago and has been a modest favorite in fashion’s inner circle ever since. The Chinese designer focuses on cartoony, intriguing and borderline-busting bulging silhouettes.Rihanna, Bella Hadid, and Lady Gaga have all worn his creations. His 23 FW collection, presented at PFW, consisted of humorous, oversized silhouettes. (Peng loves including giant puffy hand motifs throughout.)
Austrian knitwear designer Florentina Leitner Graduating in 2020, she quickly launched her label full of quirky silhouettes, fun hats and unusual sunglasses. . Think of her as the new guard of quirky knitwear her designer takes color and unabashed self-expression seriously. that too seriously.
Kristen Bateman is a contributing editor for Harper’s Bazaar. Her first fashion article was published in Vogue Italia when she was in her sophomore year of high school. Since then, as an intern she has contributed to WWD, Glamor, Lucky, iD, Marie Claire and more. She creates and writes the #ChicEats column, covering Bazaar fashion and culture. When she’s not writing, she checks out the latest runway collections, dyes her hair to match her mood, practices her Italian, and sells Prada at her 90% off Tuscan outlet. Aim to buy. She is vintage she loves shopping, desserts and cats.